Gabardine: The Versatile, Durable Fabric Perfect for Outerwear and Beyond

Gabardine is one of the most iconic and durable fabrics in the fashion world. Known for its tightly woven structure, water resistance, and durability, it has remained a favorite for decades among designers and consumers alike.

Whether you’re purchasing a suit, coat, or even trousers, the chances are high that you have encountered gabardine fabric at some point. This comprehensive guide will delve into the history, production, uses, care tips, and insights about gabardine to give you a full understanding of its value in the textile world.

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What Is Gabardine?

Gabardine is a tightly woven, twill worsted wool fabric, widely recognized for its durability and water resistance. Its tightly packed weave is what gives the material its resilient nature, making it suitable for everything from heavy-duty outerwear to stylish suiting. Although initially made from wool, modern gabardine can also be composed of cotton, polyester, or blends of these materials. This makes it versatile enough to be used across a range of different garments, from casual to formal wear.

Key Characteristics of Gabardine:

• Tight weave: Gabardine’s tightly woven structure makes it incredibly sturdy and resistant to wear.
• Water-resistant: While not fully waterproof, gabardine can withstand moisture better than most fabrics.
• Breathability: Despite its dense weave, gabardine is breathable, especially when made from natural fibers like wool.
• Smooth finish: Gabardine has a sleek, smooth surface, making it ideal for high-end garments like suits and coats.

The History of Gabardine

Gabardine’s story began in the late 19th century when it was first introduced by British fashion house Burberry. Thomas Burberry is credited with inventing gabardine fabric in 1879. Burberry’s goal was to create a new fabric that was both durable and water-resistant, qualities necessary for making long-lasting outerwear for outdoor enthusiasts and explorers. His gabardine fabric became popular with adventurers and military personnel and was used for garments in harsh climates.

By the early 20th century, gabardine had become a staple fabric for suits and formal wear due to its refined appearance and practicality. During World War II, the British military adopted gabardine for their uniforms, further solidifying its reputation for toughness and utility.

How Gabardine Is Made

The process of making gabardine begins with selecting high-quality fibers, typically wool for traditional gabardine, but often cotton or synthetic fibers like polyester in modern versions.

The Weaving Process:

Gabardine is a twill weave fabric, meaning it is woven in a specific diagonal pattern, creating a dense, durable texture. The yarn used in gabardine is typically worsted, meaning that the wool fibers have been combed to align them before spinning, resulting in a finer, stronger yarn.

This combination of worsted yarn and twill weave is what gives gabardine its signature tight structure and water-resistant properties. The fibers are packed so closely together that there is little room for moisture to penetrate, making it a perfect material for weather-resistant outerwear.

Materials Used in Gabardine:

While traditional gabardine was made from 100% worsted wool, modern variants often include:

• Cotton: For a more lightweight, breathable alternative to wool.
• Polyester: For added durability, wrinkle resistance, and ease of care.
• Blends: Wool and polyester blends provide the best of both worlds — natural breathability with enhanced durability.
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Uses of Gabardine in Fashion and Beyond

One of the key reasons for gabardine’s enduring popularity is its versatility. It can be used for a wide variety of garments and products. Below are some common applications of gabardine fabric:

1. Suits

Gabardine suits are a popular choice for men and women alike, thanks to the fabric’s smooth, polished finish and excellent drape. Suits made from gabardine wool are particularly prized for their longevity, resisting wear and tear over years of use.

2. Outerwear (Trench Coats, Overcoats, and Windbreakers)

Gabardine was initially developed for outerwear, and it continues to be a favored material for coats, especially trench coats and overcoats. The fabric’s water-resistant properties make it ideal for jackets and windbreakers that need to perform well in outdoor environments.

3. Trousers and Slacks

Because gabardine is durable yet flexible, it is often used to make trousers, including dress pants and slacks. These garments hold their shape well and resist wrinkles, making them a practical choice for daily wear.

4. Uniforms

Thanks to its durability and resistance to environmental elements, gabardine has long been used for military and service uniforms. It offers a crisp, clean appearance while standing up to heavy use.

5. Accessories

Gabardine isn’t just limited to clothing. The fabric’s durability and water-resistant qualities make it an excellent choice for accessories such as hats, bags, and even luggage.

Advantages of Gabardine Fabric

Gabardine is widely regarded as a superior fabric for several reasons:

1. Durability

Gabardine’s tightly woven structure allows it to endure years of wear and tear without showing significant signs of distress. This makes it ideal for garments like coats and trousers, which tend to experience heavy usage.

2. Water Resistance

Although not fully waterproof, gabardine’s tight weave provides a degree of water resistance, making it useful for outerwear. Rain tends to bead up on the surface, allowing the fabric to dry more quickly than others.

3. Breathability

Despite being densely woven, wool gabardine remains surprisingly breathable, making it comfortable to wear even in slightly warmer climates. This is particularly true for wool or wool-blend gabardine, which naturally wicks moisture away from the body.

4. Aesthetic Appeal

Gabardine has a naturally smooth, sleek finish, which lends itself well to high-end, polished garments. It offers an elegant look that doesn’t compromise on function, making it a favorite in both casual and formal fashion.

5. Wrinkle Resistance

Gabardine, especially when blended with synthetic fibers, resists wrinkling, making it a practical choice for travel garments, uniforms, and office wear.

Care and Maintenance of Gabardine

To maintain the quality and longevity of gabardine garments, it is essential to follow proper care guidelines. Gabardine, especially wool-based varieties, requires a bit more attention than your standard fabric.

Washing Instructions:

• Wool Gabardine: Wool gabardine is best dry cleaned, as washing it in water could cause shrinkage or damage to the fibers. If machine washing is necessary, use a gentle cycle with cold water and a wool-specific detergent.
• Cotton or Synthetic Gabardine: These versions can often be machine washed. Always check the care label to determine if the garment can be machine washed or if it needs special treatment.

Drying:

Avoid using a dryer for gabardine garments, as high heat can cause the fabric to lose its shape or damage its fibers. Instead, lay the garment flat or hang it to air dry.

Ironing:

Gabardine can be ironed, but it is important to use a low heat setting and a pressing cloth to avoid any damage or shine to the fabric. Steaming is also a great option to remove wrinkles without the risk of heat damage.

Stain Removal:

For minor stains on wool gabardine, blot the area with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Avoid rubbing, as this can damage the fibers. For persistent stains, professional cleaning is recommended.

How Gabardine Compares to Other Fabrics

When considering fabrics for clothing, gabardine often stands out due to its unique combination of qualities. Here’s how it stacks up against some common alternatives:

Gabardine vs. Cotton:

While both cotton and gabardine are breathable, gabardine is far more durable and water-resistant. Cotton, on the other hand, is softer and more absorbent but less suited for harsh weather conditions.

Gabardine vs. Polyester:

Polyester is cheaper and more stain-resistant than gabardine but lacks the natural breathability and refined look of gabardine. Gabardine also holds up better over time, especially when made from wool.

Gabardine vs. Tweed:

Both gabardine and tweed are commonly used in outerwear, but gabardine offers a sleeker, more polished look compared to the rough, heavier texture of tweed. Tweed is warmer, while gabardine is lighter and more water-resistant.

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FAQs About Gabardine

1. Is gabardine waterproof?

Gabardine is water-resistant but not fully waterproof. It can repel light rain, but prolonged exposure to water may cause it to become saturated.

2. What are the main uses of gabardine fabric?

Gabardine is used in a wide range of garments, including suits, trousers, outerwear like trench coats and windbreakers, and uniforms. It is also sometimes used for accessories such as hats and bags.

3. Can gabardine be worn in all seasons?

Yes, gabardine can be worn in multiple seasons. Wool gabardine is suitable for cooler climates due to its insulating properties, while cotton or polyester blends can be worn in warmer weather thanks to their breathability.

4. How do I care for gabardine garments?

For wool gabardine, dry cleaning is recommended. Cotton and synthetic gabardine can often be machine washed, but always check the care label for specific instructions. Avoid high heat when drying or ironing.

Conclusion

Gabardine has earned its place as a reliable, durable, and stylish fabric in both fashion and utility garments. Its versatility, water resistance, and smooth finish make it an ideal choice for everything from formal suits to rugged outerwear.

Whether you’re looking to invest in a timeless trench coat or a durable pair of trousers, gabardine offers the perfect balance of form and function. When cared for properly, gabardine garments can last for years, making them a smart, long-term addition to any wardrobe.

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